The One Button Suit
The trendiest button option, it is usually reserved for unique evening suits, or clubbing/going out blazers.
A single button is great for very fashion forward men; for most men, two buttons may be more wearable.
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The Two Button Suit
A 2-button suit is the most versatile. It fits with most body shapes\sizes, works well as just a blazer, and is currently the most popular choice of suit button style.
If you are a first time suit buyer, two button is your best choice.
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The Three Button Suit
A 3-button suit is generally seen as more mature. This style works best for shorter men who wish to visually elongate their torso. Ultimately the two and three button suit is interchangable and becomes a matter of personal taste.
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No Vents
Reserved only for classic tuxedos, the single vent ensures the silhouette of your suit jacket is maintained as much as possible. Do not put your hands in your pockets while wearing a jacket with no vents, it will not look good.
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Single Vent
Common among North American suits, the single vent provides a minimal amount of extra mobility to a suit when buttoned up. Sitting is also easier.
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Double/Side Vents
Popular in European suits (especially British), side vents provide the most mobility for the suit wearer. Side vents also make it easier to put your hands in and out of your pocket; ensuring the silhouette of your suit jacket is well maintained at all times.
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The soft and often shiny material on the inside of your suit. Lower quality suits use polyester lining, while higher quality suits will use an increasingly large amount of rayon and/or cotton. A 100% silk lining or specialty cotton lining is considered the best.
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Wool Fabric
The most common suit fabric, wool is warm and durable. Wool is especially resilient to heat (say, from an iron), and will not wear out as quickly as other suit fabrics.
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Cashmere Fabric
Considered the best suit and overcoat material; Cashmere produces the softest suit fabric. It generally has a slight sheen that wool does not posses. Being so soft, Cashmere generally wears out a bit faster then other suit fabrics.
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Cotton/Linen
Cotton is the most breathable suit fabric. Ideal for summer, cotton suits wrinkle easier than wool or polyester, but it is considered part of the ëlook?. Cotton produces great casual blazers.
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Polyester Fabric
Most major fashion labels use polyester for more fashion forward suits. Polyester also has the added benefits of being wrinkle resistant (great for traveling) and possessing of a slight sheen.
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Suit Lapels
All Indochino suits are made with slightly slimmer, more European styled lapels. This produces a sliming suit, and an overall more fashion forward look. In addition to lapel size, there are a number of lapel options
Notched Lapel
Also known as a step lapel or step collar. Sewn to the collar at an angle, it creates a step effect.This is the standard on single-breasted suits, and is used on nearly all suit jackets, blazers, or sports jackets
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Peaked Lapel
Also known as a pointed lapel. This style of lapel is usually reserved for formal suits such as a dinner jacket. In recent years, Italian designers such as Armani and Etro have started using peaked lapels on business suits; a styling that is now considered mainstream and fashionable.
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Shawl Lapel
Also known as a roll collar. Defined as a continuous curve, this collar style is usually only seen on tuxedos.
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Interlining
Interlining is the piece of material between your suit fabric and suit lining. It works to keep the shape of your suit. There are varying levels of interlining construction
No Interlining
This can be found in some summer suits and blazers. It produces a more deconstructed/casual look and is often the sign of a cheaper suit. It is not recommended for formal or work settings
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Half Interlining
Suits that have interlining from the top of the shoulder to the bottom of your suit lapels. The most common construction method, it produces a nice shaping of your chest; but, will not maintain your suit's silhouette and shape through your lower torso (especially if button are left undone).
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Full Interlining
A single piece of canvas runs the full length of your suit jacket. Considered the best construction method; it ensures your suit maintains its silhouette and form at all times (even when unbuttoned
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Interlining Construction
How the Interlining is embedded in your suit will affect how your suit wears. Lower quality fusing can see the interlining separate from your suit fabric, causing bubbles or visible imperfections in the drape of your suit fabric. Higher quality, stitched interlinings, do not encounter such issues.
Fused Interlining
Your interlining is attached to the suit fabric and lining with glue. During the construction of your suit, the interlining is run through a hot press multiple times to fuse the interlining onto your suit fabric. The basic and most common way of attaching interlining to a suit, in the long term the interlining may detach from your suit fabric producing small and potentially visible bubbles.
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Fused and stitched interlining
In addition to fused interlining, higher quality suits will add some additional threading to physically attached the fused interlining to your suit. Reducing the risk of bubbles, this option is standard among most mid to high quality suits.douba opts for this option.
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Totally hand stitched interlining
Not using any glue to fuse the interlining to the suit, instead, the canvas is attached through an intricate series of hand sewn stitching. The highest quality form of interlining with zero risk of bubbles, only very high end suits and traditional bespoke suits boast this feature
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Suit Thread Count
While not the only factor in the makeup of a quality suits, generally speaking a higher thread count suit is better. Higher thread count suits breath better, drape nicer, and will be softer to the touch.
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Wool and Polyester Suit Fabrics
<90: Poor Quality
90-100: Decent Quality
100-130: Good Quality
130-150: Great Quality
180+ Exceptional Quality
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Cotton Suit Fabrics
For cotton suit fabrics, thread counts are smaller due to the thicker fabric. Decent quality fabrics start at an 80 thread count.